Fresh from Athens, Store Manager Richard reflects on his visit to the world’s premier showcase of Greek wines, offering an insider’s glimpse into the producers, passion and provenance shaping this extraordinary wine region. The wines in this article are available upstairs now subject to availability. If you wish to reserve any for collection, please contact: richard@campbellsofleyburn.co.uk or tel 01969 624391 Now that we have got through the busy Easter period, I have had a bit of time to write about my recent trip to Athens as a guest of Hallgarten, to attend the No.1 Greek wine exhibition Oenorama. Greek wines have been exciting me for the last 18 months or so, they are my style of wines - high acidity and mineral driven. Greek wines have most certainly come along way in the last 10-15 years, the standard of winemaking has never been higher, Greek winemakers have refined their skills and embraced their local varieties. On this trip I was to discover this for myself at first hand. I was very much in distinguished company too, joining top sommeliers, wine directors, beverage advisors, brand managers, along with Steve Daniel, head of buying for Hallgarten, who has almost single-handedly been responsible for giving Greek wine the love it deserves in this country. |
.jpg) Steve Daniel - The Greek expert. It’s safe to say the head of buying at Hallgarten Wines is excited about wines from Greece. Steve Daniel says there are a few reasons for his enthusiasm: “I think consumers are always wanting to drink mineral, fresh white wines,” he starts. “And I think with global warming, a lot of traditional areas that used to provide those styles, don't anymore. The styles have changed.” It’s Daniel’s job to go out and find areas that can produce a classic, mineral fresh style – mainly for whites but also fresher reds. “My current trend prediction, which has been 25 years in the making, is for Greece,” he says. “Particularly for white wines, which sounds counterintuitive. Everyone thinks Greece is going to be hot, and you're not going to find fresh, crisp white wines. But for me, the source of those kinds of wines that I’m most excited about is Greece.” He highlights the natural acidity of Assyrtiko, which is becoming more well-known even outside of Greece. Daniel also believes it will become widely planted around the world, “as an acidifying grape”. Sticking within Greece, Daniel highlights several other exciting grapes, including aromatic Moschofilero “which also has good acidity”, and Malagouzia, which he says is “a bit like a Viognier but more acidic”. “There’s loads of new grapes, or old grapes, being discovered in Crete,” he adds. “Things like Thraphsathiri and Vidiano.”He describes younger-mindset consumers as more adventurous and ready to explore places such as Greece and North Macedonia. “There’s a real sense of wanting to discover,” he says of this cohort. “A lot of these consumers haven’t necessarily got an education around wine and are therefore happy to be guided.”One of the most mountainous countries in Europe, (and what is not mountainous is close to the sea), Greece produces stunningly fresh and mineral white wines. I think people are becoming aware of Assyrtiko particularly from Santorini, but it is increasingly being planted in the rest of Greece. It gives bracing, vibrant wines that display minerality and good acidity. I believe Assyrtiko will be spreading much further afield in coming years. Examples are appearing in Australia, South Africa and California. I believe it is only a matter of time until it appears in France. But Greece is not a one trick pony and has a treasure trove of local grape varieties that have grown in warm conditions for centuries.They are perfectly adapted to the climate, and, by the way, Greece is not actually that hot. Altitude and proximity to the sea and the cooling Meltemi wind help to reduce the temperature in growing areas. Grapes to look out for are the aromatic viognier-like Malagousia, the steely Chablisesque Robola from Kefalonia, the rich and textured Vidiano from Crete, the ethereally perfumed Monemvasia from the town of the same name, and further afield in the Cyclades, the beautifully expressive Moschofilero from the Peloponnese (thought to be an ancient relative to Gewurztraminer and Muscat). The list goes on. Clever blends with Assyrtiko as the backbone might also be the blueprint for wines from further afield in the future. Assyrtiko is a great natural acidifier. A dash of it in a Sauvignon or a Chardonnay adds acidity and structure without fundamentally changing the character of the grape. The ‘Oros’ from Akrathos is a blend of 70% Assyrtiko, 30% Sauvignon Blanc and a great example of the balance between freshness, minerality and acidity. Greece has shown the way with clever Assyrtiko blends. The rest of the world might just follow. Friday Evening - Dinner with Vasiliki Gerovassiliou Having flown into Athens from Manchester with Ivan, an owner of Kallos, a Greek wine bar in Manchester (that I must visit, it looks amazing!), we met up with all the others who had flown in from London, at the airport in Athens, before being transported to our hotel which had amazing views of Athens from its roof top bar. A nice lunch was prepared for us while we all got acquainted, before we headed off to the wine show to have a brief look around on our own prior to the main event on the Saturday. After this we headed to a local restaurant for a dinner hosted by Vasiliki Gerovassiliou of Ktima, Macedonia. |
 Producer Note Ktima Gerovassiliou is the brainchild of Evangelos Gerovassiliou. He initiated the revival of the family vineyard by planting the almost-extinct Malagousia in 1981. This state-of-the-art winery is now surrounded by 100 hectares of meticulously well cared and certified sustainable vineyards on the slopes of Epanomi. Ktima Gerovassiliou guarantees consistent, high-quality wines of international acclaim every year and his Malagousia remains the benchmark to this day. |
 Ktima Gerovassiliou, Epanomi, Malagousia 2025 14% vol Only £24.99 Expressive aromas of white pear, peach and lemon zest combine with floral hints. Opulent, with harmonious balance the palate offers a spicy, fresh and mouth-watering finish enveloped in a delicious flinty, mineral character. "This is a charming wine with perfumed aromas, an expressive bouquet with peach and apple, and a touch of pleasing oily texture. Rich in body but with a clean and zesty finish, it is very food friendly, especially paired with lobster or fish. The wine also represents a piece of modern history, rescuing near-extinct indigenous grape varieties like Malagousia; a benchmark and iconic wine from Greece that should not be missed!" Melody Wong Director of Wine The Peninsula (who was actually on the trip with us!) |
 NEW Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton, Epanomi 2022 14% vol Only £29.99 Grape Variety Limnio 85%, Mavrotragano 10%, Mavroudi 5% Tasting Note A luscious blend of three Greek indigenous varietals, where ripe dark fruits combine with notes of raisin, coffee, cacao and a hint of spice. Perfumed and polished, this smooth wine delivers sweet and sour notes of black plum, with depth and spice on the finish. Kitima Biblia Chora Ktima Biblia Chora is the innovative creation of Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and Vangelis Gerovassiliou two of the most talented winemakers in Greece. The winery was established in 1998 and the privately owned vineyard lies on the cool climate slopes of Mount Pangeon, at Kokkinochori near Kavala. It has been farmed organically since day one. These exceptional, cutting edge wines are some of the best white wines in Greece, which have similarities to very good white Bordeaux – not surprising as Vassilis Tsaktsarlis studied with Denis Dubourdieu; the king of modern white Graves. |
 Ktima Biblia Chora Ovilos White, Pangeon, Semillon Assyrtiko 2024 13.5% vol Only £39.99 Grape Variety Assyrtiko 50%,Semillon 50% Tasting Note The distinctive and characteristic aromas of apricot and honey from the Semillon blend perfectly with the citrus and lemon notes from the Assyrtiko, with nuances of vanilla and nutty hints adding complexity. Rich and concentrated, with a beautifully balanced palate and a long, mineral finish. Saturday - Show Day After a very enjoyable dinner and social drinks late into the night, it was a quieter start to Saturday morning for some, so I took the opportunity to wander from the hotel and explore the local markets, which certainly woke my senses up! We were then gathered up and taken to the show where we had timed appointments with 11 of the Greek wines producers that Hallgarten use. We probably sampled over 100 wines on the day, so difficult to choose them all, but here are some of my favourites from various producers we spent time with. |
 Kyperounda Winery, Limassol Cyprus This producer has not only the highest winery in Europe situated at 1,140 metres, but also the highest vineyards at over 1,400 metres above sea level. Located at Kyperounda, in the Pitsilia area of the Troodos Mountain range, the Kyperounda Winery sits in an idyllic setting, with correspondingly spectacular views. Vineyard The Xynisteri variety, pronounced (Sin-ees-ter-ee), is a native grape to the island. These indigenous grapes are grown on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains, in some of the highest vineyards in Europe. The plots sit on rocky terraces, where the soils are made up of sandy clay. Due to the altitude of the vineyards, Kyperounda invariably harvests approximately one month later than vineyards at half their elevation and the long hang time results in concentrated flavours in the fruit, while preserving refreshing acidity. Winemaking The gravity-fed winery is built on three levels and is designed for the gentlest possible handling of the grapes and wine. The grapes underwent 10 to 12 hours skin contact prefermentation maceration, depending on the temperature of the grapes. Vinification took place in stainless steel tanks to maximise the purity of the fruit. The wine did not go through malolactic conversion in order to retain freshness and enhance the mineral character. 20% of the wine was then matured in new oak for two months, adding subtle oak complexity to the final blend. |
 Kyperounda Winery, Petritis, Limassol Cyprus 2024 12.5% vol 75cl Only £17.99 Grapes Xynisteri 100% Tasting Note Delicious aromas of citrus fruits, candied lime, lychee and a touch of spice and vanilla. A medium bodied yet refreshing wine with a long, creamy finish. Akrathos, Halkidiki The vision to create Akrathos began in 2007 among a diverse group of friends who all shared a love of fine wine. The mountainous terroir of Halkidiki beckoned with its ideal microclimates and healthy environment. The ideal site was discovered in the municipality of Aristotle’s after exhaustive and targeted research. Constructing a winery so close to the birthplace of Aristotle’s historic ‘Acanthus’ wine felt fortuitous; thus the name Akrathos was chosen. The first five hectares were planted in 2009, implementing minimal-impact methods in an effort to preserve the ecological integrity of the area. An artisan winery followed in 2014. The unique site, combined with thoughtful and precise winemaking under the watchful eye of the highly sought-after consultant, Kyriakos Kynigopolous, has resulted in rich, concentrated wines that age well. |
  ‘Oros’ Akrathos 2020 Halkidiki, Greece 13.5% vol 75cl Only £21.99 Grapes Assyrtiko 70%, Sauvignon Blanc 30% Tasting Note Fermentation took place with wild and cultivated yeasts in stainless steel tanks to retain the freshness of fruit. The wine also spent six months on the fine lees. On the nose the wine has complex aromas of bergamot, grapefruit, pear and herbal notes which lead to a palate full of freshness with lively acidity and a mineral finish. |
 Akrathos Assyrtiko, 2020 Halkidiki, Greece 14.0% vol 75cl Only £29.99 Grapes Assyrtiko 100% Tasting Note A crisp yet generously textured Assyrtiko, with notes of lime, citrus blossom and peach, highlighted by mineral overtones. Beautifully balanced with a long, lemony finish. "The Assyrtiko from Halkidiki by Akrathos pairs beautifully with this dish. It's bright acidity and mineral character cut through the richness of the soft egg and bluefin tuna tartare, whilst the wine's saline notes echo the smokiness of the pike roe. Light citrus and green fruit flavours lift the ginger mayo, keeping the palate fresh, and the clean crisp finish ties everything together effortlessly." Andrea Strocchio Head Sommelier Pavylion. |
 Akrathos Xinomavro 2020 Halkidiki, Greece 13.5% vol 75cl Only £29.99 Grapes Xinomavro 100% Tasting Note Expressive and complex aromas of cherry and blackberry are complemented by sweet spice and vegetal tones. Opulent, with balancing freshness, refined tannins and a long finish. Oenops Oenops was founded in 2015 by talented winemaker Nikos Karatzas, who operating as a négociant, produces a stunning range of distinctive wines from his newly established state-of-the-art winery. He sources indigenous and rare grape varieties grown on exceptional terroir focussing on cool-climate sites and old-vine plots, from carefully selected vineyards in Drama and Macedonia, which have been cultivated by ambitious winegrowers using an organic philosophy. Niko adopts a minimal intervention approach, and vinifies plot by plot using stainless steel, concrete, oak barrels and amphora. His aim is to source great fruit and craft wines that reflect the nuances of the native varieties and the identity from the terroir and as a result, he produces a collection of authentic, elegant and delicious wines. |
  Oenops, Vindiano 2022 13% vol 75cl Only £18.99 Grapes Vidiano 100% Vineyard The Vidiano grapes come from old vineyards in the mountainous area of Heraklion in Crete. The vineyards are situated at 600 metres elevation, at this altitude the diurnal temperature differences influence the vines, with the warm summer days building concentrated flavours, and when the evening temperatures drop, the refreshing natural acidity accumulates in the grapes, resulting in wines of great balance Tasting Note Quintessential Vidiano with abundant citrus notes and white floral, herbal and mineral overtones. Creamy and layered with a lively freshness and flavours of stone fruit, lime and subtle spice. “…when you sort of taste it for the first time, somebody has just waved a laser wand over your whole soul and just lifted it up, right to the sort of peak of where the very essence of light comes from in this universe. It's so bright and so sort of soul-filling, delicious!” - Olly Smith on Vidiano Monemvasia Winery The Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi was founded in 1997 with a clear objective: to revive the production of Malvasia wine in its birth place. The Frankish name for Monemvasia is Malvasia, which originally lent its name to the wine. In the 12th century and for the subsequent 300 years, this wine ruled the European world. It is still produced in many countries, but until recently was not being produced in the country of its origin - Greece. The Monemvasia Winery created the first privately owned 121 hectares of vineyard, planted with local varieties. It is committed to producing quality wines which showcase the characteristics of the indigenous varieties and the terroir of the peninsula of Maleas. |
  NEW Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi, Voltes White 2024 13% vol 75cl Only £13.99 Grapes Moschofilero 30%, Roditis 70% Tasting Note A perfumed and refreshing blend of native Greek varieties offering aromas of freshly cut flowers, green apple and juicy stone fruit. Textured and beautifully balanced, with a touch of minerality on the finish. |
  NEW Monemvasia Winery Tsimbidi, Monemvasia Malvasia Vin Liastos, Laconia 2012 13.5% vol 37.5cl Only £34.99 Grapes Asproudi 10%, Assyrtiko 10%, Kydonitsa 20%, Monemvasia 60% Tasting Note Amber coloured, this intense, concentrated and beautifully balanced sweet wine delivers complex aromas of dried fruit, caramel, nuts, and coconut through to a deliciously long finish. Idaia Winery, Crete Idaia Winery is a boutique family-run winery situated in the Venerato, a charming village in the heart of the vineyards of the Malevizi district. Owned by husband and wife oenologists Vasilis Laderos and Calliope Volitaki, they specialise in producing wines from indigenous varieties and use their extensive knowledge, experience and passion to create these superb wines with strong personalities. Showcasing varietals such as Vidiano and Vilana, these crisp, dry mouth-watering whites are truly expressive of the terroir of Crete. |
  NEW Idaia Winery, Dafnes, Ocean, Vidiano 2024, Crete 13% vol 75cl Only £19.99 Grapes Vidiano 100%. Tasting Note Delicate aromatic characters of ripe peach, apricot and melon, lead to a refreshing acidity which balances the rich and charming palate. With an impressively aromatic finish, this is the quintessential introduction to the Vidiano grape. Alpha Estates, North West Greece Alpha Estate is located in Amyndeo, North West Greece. It is the brainchild of two visionaries, second generation vine grower Makis Mavridis and Bordeaux trained wine maker Angelos Iatrides. Angelos is one of the most talented winemakers working in Europe. This pristine estate in the cool highlands of Western Macedonia comprises 220 hectares of privately owned single block vineyards, which are certified sustainable, and employs the most up-to-date vineyard techniques and winemaking technology to produce world class wines from French and indigenous Greek varietals. |
  NEW Alpha Estate, Single Vineyard Turtles, Florina, Malagouzia 2025 13.5% vol 75cl Only £18.99 Grapes Malagouzia 100% Tasting Note Lively aromas of citrus, sweet spice and hints of honeysuckle lead to a richly textured palate, has superb length, balance and plenty of finesse. Bright and zesty on the finish. |
  NEW Alpha Estate, Single Vineyard Hedgehog, Amyndeo, Rosé 2024 13.5% vol 75cl Only £24.99 Grapes Xinamavro 100% Tasting Note A pale and lively rosé with an aromatic and fresh bouquet of raspberry layered with rose petals, spice and mineral notes. Crisp with a creamy, fruity palate through to a long finish. |
.jpg)  NEW Alpha Estate, Single Vineyard Hedgehog, Amyndeo, Xinomavro 2022 14% vol 75cl Only £22.99 Grapes Xinamavro 100% Tasting Note A wonderful example of Xinomavro with its complex bouquet of small berried red fruits, leather, pepper, clove and vanilla spice showing great typicity. Structured and beautifully balanced with rounded tannins and well-integrated oak, with a touch of quince on the finish. Saturday Evening Dinner with Yiannis Paraskevopoulos of Gaia Estate After returning to the hotel, we had a hour or two rest up before heading out and enjoying a walk through the city to an evening dinner hosted by Yiannis of Gaia Wines S.A (two vineyards in Santorini and Nemea). I felt very honoured to meet the man who produces wines that earn admiration and recognition throughout the wine world. |
 Gaia Estate One of the pioneers of the modern Greek wine revolution Gaia Estate was established in 1994 by Greek winemakers Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. Operating from two different wineries in the important wine growing regions of Nemea and Santorini, they have earned a reputation for making cutting-edge wines. Gaia's main aim is to explore the boundaries and present the potential of the indigenous Greek grape varieties to wine enthusiasts worldwide. |
 NEW Gaia Wines, 4-6H Rosé, Peloponnese, Agiorgitiko 2025 12% vol 75cl Only £15.99 Grapes Agriorgitiko100% Tasting Note An appealing and vivid rosé with an intense and aromatic profile which hovers between delicate floral notes of rose petals and fruity flavours of pomegranate and strawberry. Vibrant with lifted crisp acidity and a refreshing finish. |
.jpg) NEW Gaia Wines, Monograph Assyrtiko, Peloponnese 2024 12.5% vol 75cl Only £18.99 Grapes Assyrtiko 100% Tasting Note A flinty and concentrated Assyrtiko, with lifted citrus fruits, exuberant tropical fruits and a touch of honeysuckle. Refreshing, precise and zesty with a mineral backbone and lovely, crisp finish. |
.jpg) .jpg) NEW Gaia Wines, Gaia Estate, Nemea 2021 14% vol 75cl Only £41.99 Grapes Agiorgitiko 100% Tasting Note With sweet fruits and a rich, velvety texture, this delivers great depth and complexity. A rich and expressive wine with concentrated notes of red and black fruits, vanilla, black pepper and violet enveloped in powerful, yet smooth tannins, through to a long finish. |
 NEW Gaia Wines, Wild Ferment Moschofilero by Gaia, Peloponnese 2025 13% vol 75cl Only £22.99 Grapes Moschofilero 100% Tasting Note A complex and lifted wine with characteristic aromas of rose, jasmine and sweet lemon underpinned by delicious buttery notes. Nerve and tension perfectly balance the aromatic and richly flavoured palate. |
 Gaia Estate Santorini We did also get to sample the wines Yiannis produces on the island of Santorini, however, exceptional as they were at nearly £95 for the Gaia Ammonite Assyrtiko, it may be a special request order if anyone would like any? This is due to the last 3 years being very difficult for the island. The average yield in Santorini is 20 hectolitres per hectare; Burgundy produces 60 hectolitres. Then in 2023 it went down to 10, which was a bit of a disaster, to say the least. And then in 2024 it went to seven, and last year it went down to four. Three years of drought, and wildly stormy springs, are to blame. The price of a kilo of grapes in Santorini last year was between 10 and 15 euros a kilo, and you get 50 millilitres of juice out of a kilo of grapes. These are actually the most expensive grapes on the planet! Sunday morning - a trip up the Acropolis to the Parthenon The following morning we had free time, some of us returned to the show to follow up on some of the contacts they had made the previous day while, the rest of us took advantage of being in this historic city to take in the Acropolis rock that dominates the city. What an amazing must see sight, that was built in the 5th century BC. Not only an awe inspiring site, the views from the top looking down on Athens are breath-taking and well worth the walk up. |
 Sunday lunch with Stelios of Muses Estate After completing our visit, we all met up again for a final time with lunch at a restaurant in the city hosted by Stelios, one of 3 brothers in the 3rd generation family business. A wonderful selection of Greek tapas were served to us, to complement the sumptuous wines he served up. Muses Estate His passion for wine and the millennia-old winemaking traditions of his homeland, led Nikolaos Zaharias to create a small winery in 1946 in Askri, in Central Greece, fulfilling his life-long dream. In 1967, his son, Athanasios Zaharias, entered the family business and brought with him dynamic and forward-thinking ideas, and gradually they transformed the small artisanal winery into a modern winery. In 2005, the year when ‘Muses Estate’ was created, it was time for the third generation Nikos, Stelios and Panayiotis, to take their place in the family business. Their skills, scientific knowledge and youthful ideas, combined with the family tradition and experience further enriched Muses Estate. From their vines grown on the slopes of the Valley of the Muses, at the foot of Mount Helicon, they aim to produce wines that are in perfect harmony with the ecosystem, and are representative of the historic terroir, as well as the family itself. They succeed: their exquisite wines are vibrant with mountain freshness that truly evoke the senses. |
 Muses Estate, A.MUSE White, Valley of the Muses, Malagouzia 2021 12.5% vol 75cl Only £19.99 Grapes Malagouzia 100% Tasting Note A light and refreshing golden-hued wine with aromatic notes of exotic fruit, characteristic white floral notes and bright acidity, through to an elegant finish.   Muses Estate, A.MUSE Rosé, Valley of the Muses 2025 12.5% vol 75cl rrp £24.75 Special Offer Only £18.99 Grapes Mouhtaro 15%, Sauvignon Blanc 85% Tasting Note Delicate salmon-pink in colour, this refreshing rosé is full of elegant gooseberry and strawberry aromas, typical of the native Mouhtaro variety. Deliciously light, fruity and thirst-quenching, with archetypally cool-climate fruit. A co-fermentation of Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Mouhtaro grape. The Sauvignon is a remnant from the time when wineries across Greece were persuaded that international varieties were what tourists wanted. Mouhtaro on the other hand, "is the weirdest red I've ever come across", Steve Daniels says. "Loads of flavour, good acidity, low tannins and super-aromatic." He adds: "In 10 years Greece has gone from making absolutely terrible rose to being the best producer, I think, on the planet. It's very precise, with lots of flavour and intensity of fruit, but still very drinkable." |
 NEW Muses Estate, Thiva, Mouhtaro 2023 13.5% vol 75cl Only £29.99 Tasting Note A thrilling red wine from the Mouhtaro grape, showcasing an explosion of ripe red fruit, spice and silky tannins underpinned by a backbone of acidity. A real rarity and treat. "This wine is a real hidden gem of the portfolio. Immediately intense and driven by ripe, warm dark fruits on the nose, but balanced by a dry, earthy finish - it manages to be at once full and round, whilst remaining deft and light on the palate. Perfect for flavoured meats with intense sauces with a hint of sweetness" Jordan Sutton Head Sommelier L'Enclume |
 NEW Muses Estate, Valley of the Muses, Assyrtiko, 2025 13.5% vol 75cl Only £16.49 Grape Assyrtiko 100% Tasting Note Muses Estate’s Assyrtiko is vibrant, mineral-driven, and textural, balancing its signature high acidity with a creamy mouthfeel from extended lees aging. The result is a wine with bright citrus, white flowers, and a saline finish, reflecting the old bush vines, wild fermentation, and high-altitude terroir of the Valley of the Muses. |
 efcharisto To sum my trip up, it was a wonderful learning experience, in fantastic company, where the passion and love of the Greek people shined through in their wines. They are discovering that their own indigenous grapes can work together so well with the non-indigenous grapes varieties. Thank you so much to all at Hallgarten Wines for the invitation and if you haven't yet experienced Greek wine, give it a go, you won't be disappointed. We have a dedicated section upstairs now that Kath has put together, just for our Greek range. See you soon. Yamas! |
| The wines in this article are available upstairs now subject to availability. If you wish to reserve any for collection, please contact: richard@campbellsofleyburn.co.uk or tel 01969 624391 |
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